Lleida City Guide
| fast facts |
population
125,000
getting there
high speed rail link:
Barcelona - 2hrs
Madrid - 2hrs 20mins
getting around
16 bus routes
tickets from €0.85 single, €5.30 for ten journeys
tourist office
Centre d'Informació i Reserves
C/ Major 31 bis
25007Lleida
tel: 902 25 00 50
email: This email address is being protected from spam bots, you need Javascript enabled to view it
main public holidays
Easter – Semana Santa
23 April – Sant Jordi (St Georges day) patron saint of Catalunya
11 September – Catalan national day
1 November – All saints day
25 December – Christmas day
31 Decmber & 1 January – New Year
Overview
Lleida's earliest influence of note was from the Romans who populated the city they called Ilerda from about 200AD though much of its history since then was marked by invasion and war, resulting in considerable destruction. This continued right up until the end of the Spanish Civil war (1936-1939) which not only left the city in ruins but with a population of just 40,000. The city has since seen large scale investment in both historical renovation and infrastructure including a high speed rail link to both Barcelona and Madrid. Its wealth, or sometimes lack of it is based mainly on agriculture, the plains to the south of the city being some of the most fertile in Catalunya.
While Lleida in many ways doesn't compare to any of the other provincial capitals it is an attractive city and is definitely worth a stop, especially if you're travelling through this spectacular province. The area of most interest is the old town, north of the River Segre which runs through its centre, and marked by the boundaries of the river, the Rambla d'Aragó, the Avinguda de Prat de la Riba and the Príncep de Viana. It's dominated by the beautiful Seu Vella (The Old Cathedral), which lies within the walls of the ruined castle, La Suda and provides an excellent vantage point, although quite a climb, over the city.
For the time being Lleida remains relatively unknown but be prepared to hear lots more about the city and its province. A new airport is planned for the town of Alguaire just a few kilometres north of the capital and the publicity and tourism the inevitable low cost flights will generate are sure to put it firmly on the map.
Highlights
The Seu Vella
Built high above the Riu Segre, and looking across the fertile plains of the province, the Seu Vella, or 'Old Cathedral' commands the best vantage point in the city. Work began on the cathedral early in the 13th century within the walls of La Suda, the existing Moorish fortification, and by the mid-15th century the cloisters and 60m bell tower were completed. The Cathedral is of the transitional styles between Romanesque and Gothic architecture. It is a short walk from the city centre and can be reached by the lift in Placa de Joan.
Modernist Lleida
There are a dozen or so Modernist buildings in the city centre and and its suburbs. Many of them have been recently restored and display the decorative ironwork, stonework and stained glass that are key features of Modernist architecture. The Escorxador, or Old Slaughterhouse has been restored as the city's main theatre. There are other industrial and agricultural buildings including La Meta Flourmill, and the Mercat del Pla and restored Modernist houses can be found along the Carrer Major, Rambla d'Arago, and Avinguda Blondel.
Raimat Wine Cellars
A few kilometres north of Lleida are the Raimat Wine Cellars. The land has been in the Raventos family since the early 1900s who through irrigation and development have turned the area into the largest vineyard in Spain. Full-scale commercial production started in the 1970s and Raimat now produces nearly 5 million bottles of red,rosé, white and sparkling wines. The estate was further developed with around a hundred houses, grain warehouses and the 'Cathedral of Wine' winery designed by Modernist architect Rubio i Bellver using innovative new materials such as concrete! The ruined castle of Raimat was also renovated and is now used by the estate for business and private functions. Guided tours and tastings are available mornings only and, usually only during the week if booked in advance.
Eating & Drinking
Placa Sant Joan is the place for locals to meet for a coffee or beer in the many outdoor cafes, The student quarter around Sant Marti church is good for cheaper places to eat and there are some good pizzerias here. For something a bit more upmarket visit El Sauce, Restaurant El Petit Català or the Gardeny Restaurant for innovative Catalan cuisine and tasting menus. To sample the local produce try the local Restaurant School which offers gourmet workshops, visits and tastings of olive oil, cheeses and wine. If you want to make your own lunch head for the market in Plaça des Gramàtics (Monday-Saturday mornings) and after treat yourself to cakes at Patisseria Monrabà. For over four generations the Monraba family have been making delicious raspberry and chocolate 'bombes', almond biscuits and 'granados' a speciality of Lleida.
Nightlife
As Lleida is a University town you can expect to find lively bars and clubs - especially in the streets around Sant Marti church. If you can, coincide your visit with on of the many festivals in Lleida - apart from the festivals listed below the city has a tradition of supporting performing and animated arts and cinema, and there are many events during the year.
Festivals
Moors and Christians Festival May
During May are three of the biggest festivals in Lleida. At the Moors and Christians Festival you'll find re-enactments of the battles between the two rival armies around the old city streets. Hundreds of people take part and parade through the streets, and in the evening there is an impressive battle around the Seu Vella.
Festa Major
This festival celebrates the city's patron saint with the 'battle of the flowers' and floral offerings. There is a full programme of events including music (pop and classical) and theatre performances, alongside those Catalan favourites - giants, dancing, human castles and fireworks.
Aplec del Caragol
If you want to try something different then this is it - the Snail Festival of Lleida is attended by thousands of people and is declared a festival of national cultural importance! Hundreds of groups or 'penyes' gather to sample the delights of the local speciality and in all consume around 12 tonnes over three days. There's also parades, competitions and music in the streets.
tips
'Emocity' is a recently launched discount card which costs 7 euros and is available from the tourist office. It can be used for discounts on admissions to cultural venues, public transport and for parking, taxis and car hire.
